List of Monumental sculpture projects 2015

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Wednesday, 18 October 2017

Peek a Boo steam punk sunglasses!

Turns out that these triple lenses glasses were from the 80's!

Friday, 13 October 2017

Le Sens de la fête ****

Exciting fun film, merits a second viewing

Wednesday, 11 October 2017

#75 好奇藝術 Kunstkammer 75: AI poetry. Everything about Robots, robot news! Robot Poetry

#75   好奇藝術 Kunstkammer 75: AI poetry,  Tao Yuan Ming  陶淵明, Sunday Robot
Bot or Not?

On this screen shot you see, the interactive links to the bot stuff and the graphics, old style etching.
Why do they use this and not more computerised looking interface?
Because they need the old fashion poetic old tech to make it warm and human.

Could you imagine what a teenager design would look like for this page?

More links:

Sunday Robot Poet : Smelling Daisies. 

Working Model.  by Shuengit Natasha Chow 2017

A little bit like  Tao Yuan Ming  陶淵明

More::  An Analysis to the Poems and Life of Tao Yuan-Ming (365-427) 
by Banwo Adetoro Olaniyi  general information about the Poet

Painting by Chen HongShou 陳洪綬

Times Haiku
NY Times Haiku machine:

Times Haiku is a collection of what they are calling “serendipitous poetry,” derived from stories that have made the homepage of The haiku live on a Tumblr hosted by the Times. Harris built a script that mines stories for haiku-friendly words and then reassembles them into poetry. (For those of you that may have zoned out in class, haiku are comprised of three lines with, in order, five, seven, and five syllables.) The code checks words against an open source pronunciation dictionary, which handily also contains syllable counts.
“Sometimes it can be an ordinary sentence in context, but pulled out of context it has a strange comedy or beauty to it,” Harris said.
Harris was inspired by Haikuleaks, a similar project that found poetry in the cache of diplomatic cables released by WikiLeaks in 2010. The backbone of that project was an open source program called Haiku Finder, which crawls through text to generate haiku. The program was built in Python; Harris made his own version in Ruby on Rails.
The result, much like @nytimes_ebooks, is bizarre, quirky, and kind of zen. The haiku have a strange way of getting at the heart of a story, or teasing out interesting fragments from an article. “There’s something appealing about finding these snippets of text, these turns of phrase and pulling them out,” Harris said. “You find it compelling and it drives you to read the article that it came from.” (Think of it as a more lexicographically strict version of Paul Ford’s SavePublishing.)
In its own poetic way, Times Haiku will be another access point for Times stories, said Marc Lavallee, assistant editor for interactive news at the Times. “If someone sees the site, or the image of an individual haiku and shares it on Tumblr, and it gets them to think about who we are and what we do, or gives them a moment of pause, I think we’ve succeeded in a way,” Lavallee said.
Lexi Mainland, social media editor for the Times, said they wanted the poems to be able to stand on their own and be readily sharable. That’s why the haiku are actually images, which fits well with the aesthetic of Tumblr, she said. Outside of Tumblr, the Times will promote the haiku through the paper’s flagship Twitter account.
That the Times has the ability to build a haiku bot isn’t surprising. But whybuild a haiku bot? “A lot of the projects we work on here are these incredibly big heaves, which are very, very gratifying,” said Mainland. “But you crave these smaller projects, which are just as valuable.” Similarly, projects like the haiku bot may seem silly on the surface, but the underlying code, the use of natural language processing, or other components could be valuable to future projects, Lavallee said.
It helps that the project came at little expense to the Times — Harris put it together on his own during a fit of post-election letdown. Harris had been working on projects connected to the presidential race for over a year, and after election day suddenly found himself with idle hands. He wrote the code in November and began monitoring what it was spitting out. After showing it to Mainland, Lavallee, and other editors, they gave the project a green light. Designer Heena Ko and software developer Anjali Bhojani gave the haiku their distinctive appearance for Tumblr. (Those lines you see running askew of the text of the haiku? The length is computer generated, based on the meter of the first line of text.)
As whimsical as a haiku bot or a spammy-sounding Twitter bot might be, both are efforts to find new uses for the Times’ vast collection of work. “It’s just this large corpus of text that gets very dizzing to look through,” Harris said.
The Times may also have a soft spot for artwork inspired by the written word. Anyone who has visited the lobby of The New York Times Building has likely seen Moveable Type, an algorithm-backed art installation that displays fragments of Times content across 560 display screens.

Sunday, 8 October 2017

step by step guide to diy pastel filaments

Guide to the Ultimate Filament Colorer technique

Created on Sunday, January 17, 2016. I last modified it on Monday, February 15, 2016.
Filed under Physical Objects3D Printing.
A guide to loading a Sharpie with 3D printing filament to make durable, fully-coloured prints.


In 2014, Mathew Beebe published something he called the Ultimate Filament Colorer on Thingiverse (but which I prefer to call the Beebe Colouring Technique because let’s get serious). It’s a technique of colouring plastic filament by passing it through the ink sponge inside a Sharpie marker before it feeds into the hotend of a 3D printer. The pigment mixes with the plastic inside the hotend, producing a permanent colour that doesn’t rub off. Beebe first did this with ‘natural’ (uncoloured and transparent) filament, and I later went on to document the results from white filament.


There are many benefits to colouring printed objects in this way:
  1. Space-saving! You don’t need to store lots of half-open spools of filament in different colours, and you don’t need to use them up even if you dislike the colour.
  2. Cheap! You can get a Sharpie — and therefore a new colour — for about 1/10th the cost of a spool of pre-coloured filament.
  3. Consistent results! Calibration is simpler because you’re using the same spool of filament for every colour.
  4. Durable! The colour gets 'baked in’ during the extrusion process, so you can sand and finish objects straight off the build platform.
  5. Fast and easy! No need to sand, prime, paint, and seal your objects to get them fancy-looking.
In short, it’s a cheap set-and-forget way to start printing in colour.


Of course, there are always some compromises with any technique:
  1. PLA only (?). A redditor reported that contact with Sharpie ink instantly made his ABS too brittle to extrude. If you’ve used this technique with any plastic other than PLA, I would sure love to know.
  2. One colour at a time. You can only print in one colour unless you swap out the Sharpie mid-way through a print, same as for any single-extruder printer.
  3. Tricky to set up. Pushing the filament through the ink sponge takes some practice. If you try to stab your way through the sponge it will get compacted and it will be harder for you to insert the filament in the future. One of my markers is a write-off because I tried to make a pilot hole for the filament with a sharpened piece of wire. It simply compacted it like crazy and made ink drip out through the bottom. You need to be gentle.
  4. You lose some filament. First you need to cold-pull once to get the majority of the previous colour out. Then you need to cut some filament off when forming a point for insertion into the Sharpie. Then you need to feed at least 20 cm through the extruder to flush the previous colour and get the new one going. Then when you swap to another colour, you need to cut the old coloured section off. I estimate that you lose about 40 cm of filament in total at every colour change versus 20 cm if you use coloured filament — but 40 cm is only 0.1% of a 1 kg 1.75 mm roll, so it’s hardly awful.
  5. 1.75 mm filament only. Firstly, it’s hard enough to push narrow filament through the ink sponge. Secondly, 1.75 mm filament has more than twice the surface area of 3 mm filament per unit area, which means that there is less plastic to dilute the colour stuck on the surface.

How to do it

You will need:

  1. A Sharpie. Maybe two if this is your first time.
  2. 1.75 mm filament, either opaque white or 'natural’ colour.
  3. 2 mm drill bit (5/64 inch?) held in a hand drill or pin vise.
  4. Small long-nose pliers. Don’t use round-nose jeweller’s pliers; they pinch the filament and create a weak point where it can snap.
  5. Scissors or side-cutters.
  6. Lighter or matches.
  7. Optionally, a printed Sharpie holder.

1. Prepare the Sharpie

You need to pull the writing tip off with pliers and drill a hole into the opposite end of the marker.

2. Draw out the filament with heat

Wave your lighter underneath a section of filament while gently pulling on it. You don’t need much heat.
The filament will draw out into a long, thin section.

3. Cut a point into the filament

With your scissors or side-cutter, cut the thinned section of the filament at a very steep angle. The cut should be made very close to where the filament begins to narrow.

4. Insert the filament into the bottom of the Sharpie

Straighten about 15 cm of the filament and gently push it into the Sharpie and through the ink sponge. If you feel lots of resistance, back off, rotate the filament and marker a little, and try a different angle by bending the filament as you push it in to get the tip to move around. I have gotten the most success by machine-gunning this, i.e. doing the rotate-and-bend very quickly so that I can try as many angles and bends as possible in a short time.

5. (Maybe) force the filament out of the tip

If you really can’t get the tip to come through, then the filament has probably swerved and gotten stuck inside the head of the marker (the coloured part of the barrel).
Look down into the front of the barrel while moving the filament back and forth to see if the filament is indeed stuck here. If it is, great! Grab your long-nose pliers and use it to push the filament through while you rotate the marker.
Eventually it will come out.

6. Install in the (optional) holder

I printed these Sharpie holders to keep the Sharpie vertical above my extruder so that the filament could take a straight path through the Sharpie and into the hot-end. Each Sharpie goes inside a holder that was printed with its ink, so the holders do double-duty as colour swatches.

7. Install in the extruder

For direct-drive extruders like my Printrbot Simple Metal’s, you just feed the coloured filament directly into the hobbed bolt.
If you have a Bowden setup then you will need to come up with a spacer to hold the Sharpie and extruder apart so that the filament has time to completely dry before entering the PTFE tube. This should keep staining at a minimum.

Frequently asked questions

Am I really stuck with using PLA?

I don’t know! Lots of people have reported success with PLA, and one person has reported failure with ABS. As far as I know, no one has tried other plastics like HIPS, Nylon, high-temp PLA, and so on. The best way to find out is to try, right? If you do try a different plastic, please let me know how it goes.

How long does a Sharpie last?

A long time. Beebe estimated it would last for a whole spool, and I think that is realistic. I have been swapping between different Sharpies for the last few weeks to print different colours, and I’ve been leaving them connected to my printer and uncapped for several days between printing jobs. All of the Sharpies are still fine.

Do the Sharpies foul or clog the nozzle?

No, my 0.4 mm nozzle is fine. Sharpies just leave some wet ink that can be either cold-pulled out, or purged by extruding a new colour. The exception to this is metallic Sharpie which leaves behind all of the sparkly metallic particles. These don’t clog the nozzle, but they resist being extruded and need to be cold-pulled out (see image below).
Nozzle fouling caused by Sharpies. Both images are of cold-pulled PLA from a 0.4 mm nozzle. The left image shows debris left behind by a metallic Sharpie; this is what was left after about 6 cold-pulls done before. The right image shows typical fouling from a plain coloured Sharpie. The nozzle never clogged during printing.

How quickly can colours be swapped?

The basic steps involved are:
  1. Remove Sharpie and cut off coloured tail from previous colour.
  2. Form a point and guide fresh filament through the Sharpie.
  3. Insert into machine and extrude 20 cm until colour is steady.
If the machine is already hot, all of this can be done within 1 minute.

Can the colours get any stronger?

It can get darker, but the quality of the colour becomes worse. I noticed that the way the filament is pulled through the Sharpie affects the colouration: The start-stop motion of an extruder, which pulls only a small amount of filament through at a time, leaves a thin coat of colour on filament and a gentle pastel colour on the printed item. In comparison, pulling a bunch of filament through the Sharpie by hand makes a really heavy coating on the filament, but this dark colouring doesn’t come through in a consistent way (see image below).
Uneven colouration from thickly-coloured filament. This photo shows detail from three whistles printed with the same Sharpie. The whistle on the left was printed using heavily-coloured filament, created by pulling the Sharpie along the filament by hand during printing. For the middle whistle, I left the filament alone and allowed the extruder to pull filament through by itself, which purged the large amount of ink left in the nozzle from the previous print. The final whistle, on the right, was printed entirely with filament pulled through the Sharpie by the extruder alone. The banding on the left whistle is even more noticeable in person.

Can I mix colours?

Not with the method shown here. I once tried inserting some yellow-coloured filament into a blue Sharpie. The filament at the top became green, but by the time it exited the Sharpie the solvents and ink sponge had stripped the old colour off and left only the blue behind. The final print colour was an unmodified blue.
You might, however, be able to get away with something like this which uses two Sharpies to colour different sides of the filament as it passes through, so that neither Sharpie can rub off the other’s colour. However, you would be relying on the colour to mix evenly inside your nozzle.

DIY pastel colors w 3d filaments - Sharpie

Pastel-coloured 3D prints using Sharpie-brand markers

Created on Saturday, January 16, 2016. I last modified it on Tuesday, February 9, 2016.
Filed under Physical Objects3D Printing.
Filament can be dyed during printing by passing it through a permanent marker. This article outlines the colours you get from dyeing opaque white filament with different Sharpie colours.
In 2014, Mathew Beebe published something he called the Ultimate Filament Colorer on Thingiverse. It’s a technique of colouring plastic filament by passing it through the ink sponge inside a Sharpie marker before it feeds into the hotend of a 3D printer. The pigment mixes with the plastic inside the hotend, producing a permanent colour that doesn’t rub off.
If you want to get in on this technique, I wrote a step-by-step guide to help you out.
When ‘clear’ plastic is coloured, the result is generally the same colour as the Sharpie was. However, no one has documented the colours that result when opaque white plastic is coloured. The answer is that it creates pastel colours (Fig. 1)! In this article, I tested all the Sharpies I could find and documented their final printed colour.
Figure 1. Soma Cube pieces printed with Sharpie-coloured filament. Don’t they look like delicious candy? The Sharpie colours used for these prints are the ones listed in my recommended palette later in this article (plus the uncoloured white filament).

Why colour filament?

It’s a good question. Why make your own coloured filament when you can just buy the stuff?
In short, there are three reasons:
  1. Space. You need to store all that filament somewhere and keep it cool and dry.
  2. Waste. You end up with lots of open spools that need to be used up.
  3. Consistency.
That last point is the big one for me. Filaments from different manufacturers have different temperature profiles. Within a manufacturer’s line, every colour also has its own temperature profile — it might want a hotter first-layer temperature, for example, or it might start stringing at a lower temperature. And due to variations in the manufacturing process, each spool will have a slightly different average filament diameter. You would normally tweak your settings and find a compromise for all of the filaments you want to use, but if you use a single type of white filament and colour it on demand, you don’t have to.

The documentation process

I designed a Sharpie holder for this job (Fig. 2). Its most important function is to hold the Sharpie vertically above my printer’s extruder so that the filament has a straight line through the Sharpie and into the hotend, reducing friction and dragging. By printing each Sharpie’s holder using filament coloured by that same Sharpie, I can also use these prints as a colour reference in the future.
Figure 2. A set of Sharpies in the holders they helped create. The caps are covering the holes drilled into the bottom of the markers, while the holes at the bottom of the holders are sealed with tape.
Sharpies, annoyingly, are not labelled with their colour or even a colour code. I have therefore used Cheryl Shireman’s Sharpie colour reference diagrams to find both the name of the colour and the colour of its cap — Cheryl’s photos are somehow a truer reproduction of the cap colours than the photos on Sharpie’s own website.
I tried to photograph the final prints but I found it really difficult to represent their colours accurately. Instead, I did my best to mix the colour in GIMP’s colour picker while holding the finished print against my screen and under a strong white light. This was much more dependable.
The filament I used for all of these prints was Bilby3D white opaque PLA. It’s advertised as
Pure, bright white (not cream in colour).
Which makes it a nice base for this research. I printed it at 200 °C on alcohol-cleaned blue tape.

The results

I have been wanting to print in pastels since forever, so this is great!


Cap colourPrinted colour
Sky Blue#e8fffc
Lime Green#bafcc2

Electro Pop

Cap colourPrinted colour
Ultra Violet#fffdbd
Nano Blue#94ffe4
Optic Orange#ffd2b8
Techno Blue#9aeaf1
Electric Pink#f3ecf3

Floral Colours

Cap colourPrinted colour
Sky BlueOff-white


Cap colourPrinted colour
Neon Blue#aff7f6
Neon Pink#ffe5f2
Neon Yellow#f3ff9e
Neon Orange#ffefc4


Cap colourPrinted colour
Gold Metallic#c4d8db
Silver Metallic#dff7fa


Pastels, yes! It sure saves me from importing some of Faberdashery’s great pastel filaments.

Limited colour range

You’ve probably noticed a few oddities, like how some Sharpies produce very similar colours (Turquoise/Lime Green, and Pink/Magenta/Berry). I was also very surprised that none of the Sharpies produced a clean primary colour. Even Red Sharpie created an orange print when I expected it to just dilute and turn pink. I suppose these colour changes come down to the formulation, so markers from other manufacturers should have different formulations and produce their own particular colours.
Also note that all of the Floral Colours markers (the ones that came as pastels to begin with) produced so little colour in the final print that I could barely differentiate them from each other. It seems that the stronger the colour of the Sharpie, the better the printed result.

Desi’s recommended palette

Because so many of the Sharpies produce nearly-identical printed colours, we can omit most of them and just buy a few specific ones to form a pastel palette. Here are the ones I’ve settled with.
The palette of Sharpie colours that I use for printing. The palette is grouped into major colours (yellow, orange, blue, green, purple, and pink). Where possible, each major colour has a darker and lighter shade for subtle two-tone printing.
Cap colourPrinted colour
Neon Orange#ffefc4
Techno Blue#9aeaf1
Lime Green#bafcc2

Neon Sharpie fluorescence

The Neon Sharpies came out with some great colours, but only the Neon Blue print remained strongly fluorescent under UV light (see image below).

Failure of Metallic Sharpies

The Metallic Sharpies failed to produce the expected metallic look under normal operation. It seemed like the metal particles were resistant to being extruded from my 0.4 mm nozzle. The metallic colour could be forced to come out by loading the printer with heavily-coloured filament (the filament was pulled through the Sharpie by hand to leave a thick coating on it), but the printed result was patchy and unreliable, and the nozzle became loaded with metallic particles that took nearly 7 cold-pulls to clean out (although the nozzle never jammed).
Inconsistent colouring from Metallic Sharpie. Printing with heavily-coloured filament did mean that some metallic particles made it into the print, but the result was not attractive.
Debris left in the nozzle from Metallic Sharpie. This is what remained after cold-pulling 5 times. The nozzle never jammed, though.


Finally, do note that these results are for 1.75 mm filament. 1.75 mm filament has more than twice the surface area of 3 mm filament per unit area. This means that when the outside of the filament gets coated in ink, there is less plastic inside to dilute the colour.
If you wanted to do this with 3 mm filament you would need to piggyback at least two Sharpies, one after the other, to get the same intensity of colour.Note that you cannot mix colours or intensify a single colour by feeding filament into more than one Sharpie. The solvents in the last Sharpie will always scrub the old colour off completely.

Gem corn experiment 2017 - red silks

8 Oct 2017

Gem corn this year - most are yellow silks, but I have this one, its got rosy red silks, cant wait to see what the grains look like. So pretty and delicate.

Glass corn seeds, from 2015.
This year it is planted along the garage strip.
There is also one plant not far away from the strip - about 3meters - Beijing Glutinous purple corn.
And one plant of Mini Black Pearls from Taiwan.  

More pictures later.
This is the only plant with red silks.

There had been many storms, and half of the gem corn stalks were broken by the rain and wind.
Some have stood up.  Even small ones!  

Wednesday, 4 October 2017

using 1.75mm filament on Ultimaker machines


Before We Begin

If you already have 2.85mm filament loaded, starts off by unloading it from the nozzle. To do this, go to the LCD menu and choose “Material” > “Change”.
Wait a minute while the nozzle is heated up. Once its ready, it’ll automatically start turning the feeder wheel and retract the filament. When the filament has fully been retracted, go ahead and remove the spool from the spool holder.

Adjust Feeder Tension

In order properly guide 1.75mm filament into the feeder, you'll need to adjust the tension screw so that it’s not too loose or too tight. To achieve this, insert a hex key into the hole on top of the feeder and turn it clockwise.
We found the sweet spot to be where the top of the hex screw is visible, as shown in the photo above.
Avoid over tightening the screw - If large teeth marks are prevalent and dust/particals are noticable on the filament, the screw might be too tight.

Change Filament Diameter in Software

Let’s set the filament diameter in the LCD menu. To do this, go under “Material” > “Settings” > “Customize” and select “Diameter”.
Use the wheel dial to adjust the value down to 1.75mm, then push the dial to save the setting.

Adjust Settings in CURA and Simplify3D

Depending on which slicing software you’re using, you may have to adjust your printing profile.
If you’re using CURA (15.6.3 or higher) we found you do not have to change any of the settings.
If you’re using Simplify 3D, change the filament diameter, under the “Other” tab, located in “Filament Properties”. Set “Filament diameter” to 1.7500.



The defualt retraction length of 4.5mm is too far and will quickly clog the nozzle.
Set the retration length to 3mm to compensate for the difference in e steps. 
You will need to adjust this inside your slicer as well as on the Ultimaker's on board settings by going to Maintaince > Advanced > Retraction Settings > Retraction Length